greeting rituals

I have been struck by the elaborate greetings that one does here. As I bike to and from work I greet just about everyone I pass with "bonjour" or Hi, How are you? When you greet someone you know better, you might ask, "Did you sleep well?" "How's the family?" or specifically ask about different family members. Shaking hands is big in Senegal and I have to remind myself to do it. With people you know better, it is the French "embrasse" the hug and kiss and both cheeks, except here it goes back and forth 3 times, and sometimes 4. It is not uncommon, if a parent has been away for a few days or week, the next time I see them at school, it is the hug and kisses.

Recently one of the parents came to talk about her country, Namibia, in southern Africa. When the parents come, I ask them to teach us a greeting in their language, Oshiwambo. She taught us how to say hello or good morning but also taught us the reply--because there must a reply. This mother is also an assistant teacher at the school, so as I was chatting with her in the staff room, she continues to elaborate on the exchange that goes on. I asked her to relate all of it to me, so I could share it on the blog. Here is how the exchange goes in

Ongini--"How is it?"

Onawaa--"It is fine."

Walalapo--"Did you sleep well?"

Eeee--"Oh, yes" This is a long drawn out oh yes.

Wa la la po nawatuu--"Did you sleep very well" or

Wa la la po nombilituu--"Did you wake up with peace? or Is your spirit together?"

and then you ask about the household--with all the children and the whole household. and then after replies in the affirmative you say, "We give thanks to the spirit for keeping you peaceful." and then one replies Ombili-- "I wish you peace."

A visit to N'jor island

Inga and I took a boat out to N'jor Island, just off the coast from the N'jor neighborhood in Dakar. We went with two of the kids in my kindergarten class, Sarah in the pink hat and Abdoulaye, in the orange life jacket, and their mothers. The trip over in the boat is exciting!

The island itself if peaceful. Inga walked around to the far side of the island, the Atlantic side, and took the photo of the art installation. When we returned to the main land--we saw lute wrestlers on the beach practicing. In the parking lot were sheep!

Visit to markets in Dakar

We spent a certain amount of time shopping. We went to the fabric market--HLM--where Inga got some terrific patterns--which she took a picture of. I think fabric is one of the best buys you can get in Dakar. I got an elephant stool and trunk. On Goree, we admired these fabric wall hangings--and Inga just loved the black statue of liberty.

Here is the Mali market, near the train station, the two photos of men pounding fabric, is how the fabric is "waxed"--making the fabric stiff and shiny--sort of a way of ironing it. The men agreed to be photographed after Tod had successfully bought one of the hammers. I took a video clip of the hammering but have yet to be successful in adding it to the blog.

We went to the main, Sandaga market. Underground is the market of food, spices, shea butter

We began and ended the day at a crafts market, we watched the wood carvers and explored antique stalls. I purchased a trunk and a stool with elephant carving, which you can see at the start of this entry. We were serenaded by some musicians--only one of the video clips could I manage to add to the blog. The trip ended with the taxi needing a push to jumpstart the engine. That's the final picture!

Ile de Goree with Inga and Martine

I've procrastated too long posting the different blog entries about Inga's visit the first week of January. With my new laptop it is easier to up load pictures, but they still move around so it is difficult to match my description to the photo. We went on a day trip to Ile de Goree. I invited Martine, my maid to come with us since she had never been there. Martine's brother both lives and works on the island. He works for the Slave House Museum, and was filling in for another staff person so was at the entrance when we arrived. Her sister also lives on Goree, and we met her when we arrived--as she was waiting to board the ferry to Dakar--and we saw her again when we were leaving and she, just returning.

The island was as lovely as my first trip. The Catholic church had the Christmas nativity in front--an interesting modern interpretation.